I‘m a liberal leaning outdoorsman attempting to open the minds of right wingers to the idea that libs fish too. Anglers come from all walks of life, left, right, and center. Not everyone who fishes for bass is a redneck fond of Nascar, country music, and religiosity. Expect posts about largemouth bass fishing, techniques, reviews of lures and other products, but not any condemnable conservative rants. I hope to inspire the online angler community to dial down rhetoric which will do more harm than good to our sport.

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Tuesday, January 1, 2008

• Taking apart the Shimano Callisto

I'm not going to mess with really complicated maintenance, just show how to get access to the spool and some parts that might need oiling on one side and then the drag washers and drive gear on the other. I'm not brave enough to dive into a full reel break down on anything just yet. I still feel that should be done by a professional. If you can tell me how to approach removing a worm gear assembly, please post a comment. Since the Shimano Callisto is only a $40 reel, it might be a good reel to practice on before ruining a perfectly good top dollar reel. I still use mine, so I won't go there until I feel confident enough. Always have the schematics for your reel in front of you when taking things apart and putting them back together.

Shimano Callisto Schematics (PDF)

Things are much easier if the line is secured to the spool with something like electrical tape or removing the line completely before doing any work. Start by removing the reel from the reel seat on the rod. Take the reel to a well lit area like at a desk. Use a screwdriver to remove the two screws on the side of the reel where the easymag controls are located. Set them aside in a safe place so you won't lose them.
Get your fingernails into the crack at the bottom of the sideplate and pull it out away from the reel exposing the easymag controls.Turn the easy mag controls counterclockwise from 12 o' clock to about 10 o'clock (or 9 to 7 if looking at it from the view in the pictures). It's easier to turn if the front of the reel is facing up. It might be a snug fit. Use the sides as leverage and turn, but be careful touching some of the the metal at the front as it may be somewhat sharp. I've found pressing in on the middle makes it easier to remove. You might also get a little bit of grease on you. Please do not pull from the plastic point sticking out away from the outer mag brake assembly. It's only plastic, so too much force will break it right off. Pull the easymag controls straight out away from the reel. This fit is even more snug and more difficult to remove. The spool is now exposed. Gently tilt the reel and catch the spool as it dislodges. Pull the spool the rest of the way out.

Put it back together in the reverse order. At the point where you have the sideplate back on, but before putting the screws back in, you might notice the sideplate does not fit firmly into place. The center of the sideplate needs to be pressed down at the center of the easymag controls to snap fully into place. Press down firmly and you'll hear a loud snap. Then put the screws back in good and you're done.

Let's switch sides!
First you have to remove 3 screws. One is located on the front edge and another is at the rear above the "CSO-100" label. The third is on the handle. It holds a gray plastic cap in place. After removing the third screw, set the plastic cap aside and use a wrench to loosen the nut beneath it. It will help to steady the handle. After loosening the nut, twist it off by hand. Place the nut inside the plastic cover and then remove the handle. Remove the small metal plate beneath the handle and remember how it was positioned (top/bottom).

Remove the star drag by turning it counterclockwise. There may be a washer beneath it. This washer might be stuck to the star or it may still be on the shaft. Place the washer correctly oriented in the star and set aside.

There are two black drag spring washers positioned below the star drag. Make sure you remove them carefully as their orientation is critical to the functioning of your drag. They should be oriented facing each other, mouth to mouth like two parentheses (). A small flathead screwdriver may aid in their removal.

Now remove the gray cast control knob and the spring underneath it. Then remove the silver sideplate. There are two screws that you'll need to remove next (top/bottom). Then remove the gray housing to expose the gears and drag washers. Be careful during this step because there are two springs underneath this sideplate which slide over the yoke, the white plastic piece which holds the pinion gear in place. These two springs have a tendency to stick to the housing and not the pins they wrap around. Springs are really easy to lose when working on fishing reels.

Note the cylindrical spacer above the drag washers. It has two tabs on the bottom which hold it in place against the washer. Also notice the grease in the photo. Try not to get it all over your fingers and take care not to transfer any onto the surface of the washers or other parts. The drive gear might take some gusto to remove, but it just slides off. Everything beyond this point is left up to you. If you cannot identify the parts from here on out, you have no business diving that deep yet. Besides, be aware that when you take the ratchet washer off (see photo below), there is a chance you can overstretch part of the anti-reverse pawl which results in a clicking noise once you reassemble the reel. Also pay attention to how the plastic yoke around the pinion gear is oriented should either fall out.

Put everything back in reverse order
Drive gear, washer, spacer, gray housing, two screws, drag spring washers mouth to mouth, silver sideplate, two screws, spring, cast control knob, drag star with washer (helps to keep thumb on spool), silver plate, handle, nut (tighten with wrench), gray cover, and lastly, the screw (correct alignment with cap & hole using wrench on nut).

Make some casts and test your drag to make sure everything functions properly after the reassembly.

The plastic pawl cap which covers the line guide pawl just behind the worm gear at the front of the reel can break if too much force is applied. The twisting motion of unscrewing the cap puts just enough pressure on the outer edges to leave a spiral crack. I'm speaking from personal experience. I'm waiting for the replacement part to arrive. Also take note that there is a tiny washer behind the pawl cap, considered a "spacer" in the schematics.

When I dig a little deeper, I'll be sure to come back and post additional photos. It shouldn't take much extra work to figure out how to access the worm gear and the clutch. There are some more screws holding things to the frame. The schematics provided in the link below should make things easier to figure out.

Good luck!

Related Posts:
Shimano Callisto Review
Adjusting The Shimano Callisto


Ismail said...

where exactly does the oil go ... ?

BassFishingDem said...

On this particular reel, I tend to apply oil to a bearing at the base of the spool shaft (I do both sides) visible on the photo where the spool is exposed while still inside the reel as well as apply a little grease on the worm gear. Some people use oil on worm gears. Not sure if that's a good idea. A little bit of grease applied to the ends of the spool shafts is also recommended in the BPS Lubrication guide I also posted on my blog on Feb 23, 2008. You might want to look over those instructions.

Anonymous said...

well done i am forever gratefull to you and others like you who are prepared to share their knowledge on the internet, these days if i want to kbow how to do something (like find out some particulars on how to put reels back together after i forget to wash them and they start making funny noises and in the process drop the darn thing and then have no idea) i can allways rely on the fact that someone out there has done it before me and has graciously taken the time to put it on the net..



Rossco from australia,

PS, we have bass here to great fish to catch