I‘m a liberal leaning outdoorsman attempting to open the minds of right wingers to the idea that libs fish too. Anglers come from all walks of life, left, right, and center. Not everyone who fishes for bass is a redneck fond of Nascar, country music, and religiosity. Expect posts about largemouth bass fishing, techniques, reviews of lures and other products, but not any condemnable conservative rants. I hope to inspire the online angler community to dial down rhetoric which will do more harm than good to our sport.

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Thursday, May 22, 2008

• Back To Basics: The Texas Rig

Lots of sites have excellent explanations illustrating how to set up a Texas Rig. I noticed visitors coming to this site looking for the T-rig, so I thought I would post my own version. I suppose it can't hurt having my own page on the subject, can it?

Choose your offset hook. I prefer a 4/0 EWG hook or a 4/0 Zoom Horny Toad Hook with a screw lock. The traditional T-rig is set up with a bullet sinker on the line first. I prefer to rig it weightless most of the time. You don't necessarily need an offset hook. I just find that it works better with this kind of rig.

An offset is designed to keep the plastic worm from sliding down the rest of the hook, although that isn't always true. It lines the worm up with the hook point giving your lure a smooth and straight appearance. It's very easy to adjust plastic lures around an offset hook.

Run the point of the hook through the head of the worm parallel to the body, advance a short distance, and turn the hook point downward so the hook comes out the bottom side of the worm. A good way to gauge that distance is to look at the distance from the eye of the hook to the front of the offset. Advance the hook down through the hole you just made, sliding the worm around the bend of the hook, and advancing the shaft of the hook until the head is resting on the offset. Turn the hook so that when the offset slides into the worm, it will rest flat inside. Then pull the head of the worm over the eye of the hook. Does it rest flat now? If not, back the hook up until the point is back inside of the worm, advance it down the body a little more and back out again.

What I usually do at this point is line up the body of the worm along side the hook point so I know approximately where I'm going to run it through. Otherwise, the body of the worm in between the hook point and the head will buckle or stretch leaving the rig ineffective. Causing the plastic to stretch will make the head of your worm slight down across the offset of the hook. Notice where the edge of the bend in the hook lines up with the body of the worm in the 8th photo down. That's about where you're going to run the hook through. Bend the body of the worm in front of the hook point and slide it straight through at a right angle. I sometimes slide the point through at a slanted angle because later on when the worm has been torn up from regular use, the body will still have a little substance to it for the hook to cling to.

You can use this technique on any soft plastic as long as you match the size of the hook with the size of the lure. Remember, the hook alone can change the fall of a lure and sacrifice action. It's the easiest way to rig a plastic lure.

If you didn't like my explanation, visit the wikiHow version.

Texsposed hook
After T-rigging the hook, slightly pull the body of the worm just in front of the hook point towards the head of the worm and then slide it back over the hook point. This will bury the hook point in the worm making it much more effective as a weedless lure.

Ribbontail Worms
Worms with a ribbon tail require a little more attention when being rigged. If rigged properly, the worm will have the swimming action intended by the manufacturer. If not, well, you get the idea. The Culprit catalog has a section explaining how to properly rig the Culprit worms, but for some reason, they've done a complete 180 and instead of running the hook point as illustrated on LuresOnline, they are now showing it rigged from the other side. Let me explain. I was under the impression that curled-tail worms required running the hook through the seam in the side of the worm the tail curled to and out the opposite side. Now the illustration shows the hook point going into the worm from the other direction. Place the worm flat on a table and let the tail curl around in a flat and concentric fashion. The hook point should go through the body as shown below. Notice the seam lining the edge of the worm. It goes along the side on the horizontal axis. Some plastic worms have a more noticeable seam or pronounced ridge along the side. This rigging option can be used with most ribbontail worms, whether it's made by Berkley, Zoom, or any other plastics company.

(Hook point goes out the opposite side that the tail curls on)

More tips:
Screw Lock Hooks
Hooks with screws attached at the eye of the hook work great and make soft plastics last a little longer. They also prevent the heads of plastic lures from sliding down the shaft of a hook.

Super Glue
People also use super glue to keep the head of a plastic lure snug against the eye of a hook. Click the link to read more about super glue in the world of fishing.

The traditional Texas Rig has a bullet weight. Run your line through a bullet weight placed above the hook prior to tying on a hook or threading on the lure. Split shots also do well rigged just inches above the hook. Not only does it add casting distance, but it changes the action and gets your lure down to the bottom so it stays there. Some people peg their weights so they stay in place. Some prefer to let it slide.

Related Posts:
Keep Plastics Securely In Position
Rigging A Plastic Frog

Related Links:
A Guide To Modern Rigging


HellaBass said...

Excellant pictorial explanations on how to rig a worm!!